≈between sets.
The connection / 01

Same height.
Different waves.

Two reports can give you the same wave height and describe very different oceans. Period helps reveal why.

SAME HEIGHTDIFFERENT SPACING. DIFFERENT STORY.

Height is one measurement. Rhythm is another.

Wave height measures the distance from trough to crest. Period measures seconds between crests. A longer-period deep-water wave has a longer wavelength and a faster crest speed. This does not guarantee better surf: direction, local wind, tide, and the seafloor still matter.

Read a buoy like a scientist.

NDBC significant wave height represents the average of the highest third of waves in an observation period. Dominant period identifies the period at the spectral energy peak. Neither directly tells you the height of a breaking wave at Devereux.

A useful question: “What other information would I need before I trusted this number at my beach?”
The wave lab / 01

Same ocean.
Different rhythm.

A wave's period is the time between passing crests. Slide it. Watch the distance between crests change.

L = gT² / 2π

A simplified deep-water model. Not a surf forecast. The drawing spans 650 meters; wave height stays fixed to isolate spacing.

Go deeper ↗
Deep-water wave / schematic
0 m650 mONE WAVELENGTH
12 s
225 mWavelength
18.7 m/sCrest speed
9.4 m/sEnergy group speed

What the model assumes

Small-amplitude waves, no currents, and water deeper than roughly half the wavelength. g = 9.81 m/s². Crest speed c = L/T; deep-water group speed is c/2. Near shore, depth changes these relationships.

The surprise is in the square.

In this model, an 8-second wave has a wavelength of about 100 meters. At 16 seconds, it is about 400 meters. Double the period and wavelength grows fourfold. Crest speed doubles. The ocean’s rhythm carries a lot of information.

Next: follow the wave toward shore ↗